Mantao Chinese Sandwiches

These days, you can get almost anything off a food truck. Progressive-sounding ice cream, Asian hot dogs, cow feet, you name it.

However, as I've lamented before, what New York really needs is a banh mi truck. Say you are really craving a banh mi, but happen to be lunching outside Chinatown or the East Village. Say you're in, for example, the East 50's. I'm sure many office workers on these Asian-sandwich-deprived blocks would flock to something different from the usual halal vendors (as addictive as white/red sauce is.) Whoever starts driving such a truck would make a killing.

Likewise, someone should also start a pork belly sandwich truck. Gua bao (刮包) is a Taiwanese "burger" that consists of a slab of pork belly in a mantou, or steamed Chinese bun. In Taiwan, at least, the toppings usually include caramelized onions, cilantro, and crushed peauts.

In New York outside of Chinatown and Flushing, variations have sprung up at places like Momofuku and Baohaus. But again, they are nowhere in Manhattan north of 14th, at least for take-out.

Mantao Chinese Sandwiches on East 53rd St. may be the closest such place. The restaurant name is actually a misnomer. First of all, the food is as Korean-influenced as it is Chinese. Second, instead of steamed fluffy white mantou, the buns used seem closer to Chinese shaobing, baked bread with sesame on top. But no matter. Despite the buns' lack of mantou qualities, the eatery is still worth a visit.

Notes on selected sandwiches:

Braised pork belly? - I had been craving pork belly for weeks, and was looking forward to this one. Mistake. The pork belly was very dry, as though not enough braising liquid was used. The burger was bland overall, and the pickled cucumbers and cilantro didn't help. A little Sriracha from the squeeze bottle, however, did slightly improve the texture and taste. Next time I would skip this entirely for one of the other sandwiches.?

Sliced Beef with Kimchi (pictured up top) - This was my favorite of the bunch. The sliced beef was juicy, bulgogi-like, with equal parts lean meat and fat. The kimchi topping added just the right amount of kick.

Angus Beef Burger with Spicy Sambal Sauce (pictured left, half-eaten) - This is very, very spicy. The burger meat was a teeny bit dry, but hard to notice under the amount of sambal sauce. My lunch date drank a lot of water.

Spicy Pork (left, about to be eaten) - Like the Sliced Beef, the chili-tinged pork here was also juicy with equal parts lean meat and fat. It wasn't nearly as spicy as the Angus Beef. Topped with pickled daikon, this was another winner.

We didn't try the dumplings or cold noodles on the menu, but here's another tip: get the lunch combo that comes with shrimp chips. Unlike the generic shrimp chips from Chinatown, dyed Easter colors and crackly enough to suck all the moisture from your tongue after a few bites, these are thick and substantive and not too greasy.

Note to the restaurant: if the shrimp chips are housemade, please sell them to-go by the bagful.

Mantao Chinese Sandwiches
235 East 53rd St. (btwen 2nd and 3rd Aves.)
New York, NY
212-888-2490

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More Chinese and Korean eateries in New York:

Xi'an Famous Foods

Grand Sichuan International - Chelsea

Moo Goo Gai Panini @ Marco Polo Café

Kunjip in Koreatown

3 Chinese Dishes Worth the Trip into Flushing

View the original article here

Chinese Lemon Chicken

Most sane people keep a drawer full of delivery menus for the sole purpose of...ordering delivery. I too have a menu drawer, but can count on two hands the number of times I have actually ordered delivery in the past few years.

Call me a bad New Yorker.? I'm pretty good with picking up takeout while out somewhere, but dialing from home is another story. Being so dangerously close to the kitchen, I usually wind up studying the menu for half an hour, choosing an entree, then deciding, screw this, I can make the same dish, except way better.

This hubris usually leads me to spend another couple of hours ransacking my cabinets, schlepping to the grocery store, figuring out a strategy, then executing it. Even if it is already past 9pm and I'm starving. Sure, it would have been easier and about 1 hour and 50 minutes faster to just call the damn Golden Panda Dynasty, but definitely not as satisfying. Or so I tell myself.

I wonder if delivery menu one-upmanship can be classified as a psychological disorder.?

On the bright side, I can now whip up many MSG-free versions of takeout favorites, like General Tso's chicken, sweet and sour pork, and orange sesame chicken. This week was lemon chicken's turn. Sure, lemon chicken also exists as a dish in mainland China, but usually steamed, almost like Hainan chicken, with slices of lemon on top. Which is good in its own respect, but sometimes you just want a crunchy exterior.

So try this lemon chicken recipe and see how it compares. I had started experimenting with an egg and cornstarch batter, but decided that too much egg can lead to soggy chicken right out of the wok. So I went back to dipping the chicken in egg and dredging it in a dry cornstarch mixture. The sauce incorporates a little sautéed garlic and ginger, chicken broth, some lemon juice and zest, and enough sugar to balance out the tartness.?

I had also been experimenting with which results in crunchier chicken: draining fried chicken on paper towels or draining on brown paper, as a commenter recently suggested. The results are so far inconclusive, but brown paper may be edging out. Plus, it's a great use for all those Trader Joe's paper bags, of which I have plenty.

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Chinese Lemon Chicken

Serves 4

2 pounds skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 cup cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
3 cups peanut or vegetable oil
Lemon slices (optional)
White sesame seeds (optional)

Marinade:
3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Sauce:
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2-inch piece of ginger, minced
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup water

1. Combine the soy sauce and sesame oil. Coat the chicken with the marinade and let sit in the fridge for 30 minutes.

2. In a large bowl or deep plate combine the cornstarch and white pepper. Get excess marinade off the chicken, then toss the cubes in the cornstarch mixture. Shake off excess cornstarch before frying.

3. Heat the 3 cups of oil in your wok. Heat wok until just smoking, then add the first batch of chicken cubes and deep-fry until cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove chicken with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels or brown paper (from a paper bag). Repeat with the rest of the chicken.?

4. Transfer 1 tablespoon of the oil into a medium-sized pot and heat over medium-high. (You save the oil for later use by allowing it to cool, then straining into an aluminum can or other container.)

5. Add the garlic and ginger and cook briefly until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the lemon juice, lemon zest, chicken stock, and sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the cornstarch mixture so the sauce can thicken.

6. Remove from the heat, and toss the fried chicken in the sauce. Garnish with lemon slices and white sesame seeds. Serve with white rice and maybe some broccoli.?

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Other chicken recipes to try:

General Tso's Chicken

Orange Sesame Chicken

Three Cup Chicken

Chicken Lollipops

Cashew Chicken

Kung Pao Chicken

Spicy Chicken in Black Bean Sauce

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